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Roadside Gully, Bucktail Canyon

February 11, 2007

Tom, Fletch, and I got first sticks into Roadside Gully today. Conditions are stellar due the the week of single digit temps we have experienced. We soloed the low angle approach on thick wet ice.

Roadside Gully, 02/11/07

Fletch took the sharp end of the rope on the upper amphitheater’s first steep tier and belayed us up to the sloping ledge.

First Steep Tier, Roadside Gully

Fletch decided to give Thriller Pillar a go ( please understand I did not sandbag him into his first lead onto this 3 + pillar, it was his idea ).

Fletch Beginning Thriller Pillar, Second Tier, Roadside Gully 02/11/07

 
Tom and I held our breath while Fletch cruised to the top. Quite a bold first lead on leashless tools. He found it quite exciting!
 

Flech in the middle of it!

 
Left Pillar on the second tier is also in fat enough to support a lead. We decided to toprope it and each took a lap on it. Good Steep Ice!!!
 

Left Pillar, Roadside Gully 01/11/07

 
On the third tier of Roadside Gully, Knee Scum and Motorhead are not yet touching down, but Glass Menangerie looks like it could support a gentle lead. We decided to save it for another day and not possibly bash it to the ground.
 

Glass Menangerie, Third Tier, Roadside Gully, 02/11/07>

 
After setting two new permanent rappel stations, we rapped out on double ropes with two rappels to the road. The one new rap station is located on the ledge between the second and third tiers near left pillar, and the other is mid way up the low angle approach gully on its left side. Look for the double green perlon slings.

Dave in Ice Conditions, 2/11/2007 •