by Dave Seasholtz
Sun, December 19 2010 13:01
Mike Royer reports: I went up to Lock Haven/Bucktail this morning and climbed Gemini with Matt Rinard. We got to the base at about 7:30 and things looked climbable, so we racked up and headed up the left side. Matt led the first pitch...solid and plastic, though wet. It took 16cm screws in places but there were also some bare spots. We weren't sure what we'd find on the upper part, but there was enough of the left side that I decided to make a mixed route out of it. The curtain on the right was touching down, but it didn't look thick enough or well bonded enough in some places, so it seemed like a good idea to let it build a bit more. It could probably be climbed by a motivated party. We topped out and were back at the car by 10. I took a peek at the right side on the way down and it was in similar shape. It'd probably go.
Left Gemini Gully - 12/18/10 (Mike Royer photo)
We stopped to snap a couple photos of Roadside on the way out. The bottom is flowing heavy with little ice. There's a decent amount of ice up top but it didn't look like it was in great shape yet. No report on Hidden.
Roadside Gully and Upper Roadside Gully- 12/18/10 (Mike Royer photos)
Thanks for the pics Mike! From these photos from the road, it appears that the first and second vertical tiers still need some extended COLD temps to bring that heavy flow of water into climbable condition. The route on the right side of the third tier, Glass Menangerie, looks like it may possibly be touching down and climbable. Dave