Gemini Gullies, Lock Haven - 1/29/2011

by Dave Seasholtz Sun, January 30 2011 01:00

Mike Hasse reports: We climbed Gemini Left today (1/29).  It was in decent shape I'd say; the first and third pitches (we climb it as three with the first belay at the tree near the gully split and the second at the base of the headwall) were solid, but the second had a bit of rotten ice on it.  The lower angle sections had accumulated about 6 inches of snow, and there was a layer of rotten ice about an inch thick before getting to solid ice underneath.  The pillar that forms the right half of the third pitch was not fully formed, and the ice on the top half of the third pitch looked rotten enough to be concerning.  We ended up climbing halfway up the third pitch and then rapping from a large tree off to the left that we accessed before climbing the right heading "ramp".  

       

Pitch one, Right Gemini Gully and the Upper Amphitheater of Right Gemini - 1/29/11

       

Final Pitch, Right Gemini Gully - 1/29/11

Gemini Gullies, Lock Haven - 12/19/10

by Dave Seasholtz Mon, December 20 2010 16:40

Tom Mrotek reports: Jason Erdman, Jon Lawrence and I went out and climbed the initial part of Left Gemini on Sunday 12/19 but did not climb the upper tier.  For the past couple of years, there has been a fixed pin at the left side of the base of the Left Gemini's upper tier.  I placed this pin to back up the belay anchor, since I've always had either suspect cams or short screws as my other anchor points here in the early season. The pin has kept fairly solid over the years, but due to the rock quality,  I never would trust it entirely.  I noted yesterday that someone had girth hitched a runner and a rap ring through the piton and lowered/rappelled off of the pin, I would imagine to avoid the upper curtain.  Since this is not a good idea, I have removed the pin until I can ensure a good placement there.  I would recommend bringing a #2 and #3 Camalot and perhaps a couple of medium nuts and/or a baby angle for that belay right now as the ice currently isn't good enough for a screw belay.  If you choose not to top out, do as we always do and down climb that middle section to the first belay/rap station.  Also, we replaced that first rap station with new hardware yesterday.