Gemini Gullies, Lock Haven - 1/29/2011

by Dave Seasholtz Sun, January 30 2011 01:00

Mike Hasse reports: We climbed Gemini Left today (1/29).  It was in decent shape I'd say; the first and third pitches (we climb it as three with the first belay at the tree near the gully split and the second at the base of the headwall) were solid, but the second had a bit of rotten ice on it.  The lower angle sections had accumulated about 6 inches of snow, and there was a layer of rotten ice about an inch thick before getting to solid ice underneath.  The pillar that forms the right half of the third pitch was not fully formed, and the ice on the top half of the third pitch looked rotten enough to be concerning.  We ended up climbing halfway up the third pitch and then rapping from a large tree off to the left that we accessed before climbing the right heading "ramp".  


Pitch one, Right Gemini Gully and the Upper Amphitheater of Right Gemini - 1/29/11


Final Pitch, Right Gemini Gully - 1/29/11

Hidden Amphitheater, Roadside Gully, Lock Haven - 1/23/2011

by Dave Seasholtz Mon, January 24 2011 15:13

Report from Jason Erdman: It looks as though all of the climbs in the Lock Haven area in.  Ryan Mullins and I climbed in Hidden Amphitheater today and it was in pretty good condition.  The easier left side of the amphitheater was a little thin and wet, but the rest was in the best condition I have seen in the last couple of seasons.

Hidden Amphitheater - 1/23/2011 and Second Tier, Hidden Amphitheater - 1/23/2011

We stopped to check out Roadside Gully and it looks like the lower portion is completely solid and  the upper tiers should be in as well.  I also heard from Andy Hildebrand that he climbed Gemini Right Gully this past Tuesday.  The weather forecast for the next couple of weeks looks pretty good, so it should only get better from here.  

Roadside Gully - 1/23/2011

Roadside Gully, Gemini Gullies, Lock Haven - 1/9/2011

by Dave Seasholtz Mon, January 10 2011 19:11

From Cody Borigo: We went to Lock Haven area yesterday and got some good climbing in.  Roadside looked like it was in pretty good shape from the road.  Lower portions aren't fully in yet, but by no means was it the running stream like it has been.  Upper tiers looked sparse, but there are definitely some climbable lines.

Roadside Gully and the Upper Tiers of Roadside Gully - 1/9/11

We didn't climb up to Hidden but saw two climbers at the guardrail preparing to head up there. 

We did drive over to Gemini and it looked like we were the only ones there recently, as there were no tracks and the ice was pristine.  Both gullies are fat on the lower portions and I was able to get a 22cm screw in at each belay.  We ended up doing Gemini Left, for which the top pitch is in good shape, but the curtain on the right side (of Gemini Left gully) was still a little thin for my liking, so we climbed the ramp on the left half.  Ice on this pitch got progressively wetter and thinner as we climbed and a few mixed moves were involved, but it is looking really good overall.  I would recommend taking some rock pro for this upper portion as my last good screw was probably 20 feet below the topout, thanks to thin slushy ice.  We didn't get a chance to check out the right gully, but I would imagine it is in pretty good shape as well.  As a side note, thanks goes out to Tom Mrotek and the others, as we used their newly-replaced rap anchors. 

Gemini Gullies and Upper Left Gemini Gully - 1/9/11

The two climbs to the right of Gemini (Bastard Child and Loner Gully, as named in Griz's PA Ice Guide) are in decent shape.  Bastard Child is thin, but Loner is fat. 

Bastard Child and Loaner Gully just to the right (south) of the Gemini Gullies - 1/9/11 

I have some friends heading to climb Roadside tomorrow and if I don't get to join them, I'll ask them to send in some pics and info on the condition of the upper tiers.